Parasols on sale at the fabulous Hmong tribal craft market, Luang Prabang
A few days in Luang Prabang will doubtless be one of the highlights of any trip to Indo-china. A couple of weeks there allows you to sample most of what the city has to offer in terms of sights, excursions, food and drink, accommodation and activities. So Jamie and I – having been here for almost two weeks – have compiled a guide to the best, the best value and the best avoided of Luang Prabang tourist culture.
Accommodation
The good
Santi Resort
On the outskirts of the city, this opulent colonial-style mansion has tasteful rooms and a tasty restaurant but would get the award just for the stunning paddy-field view from the bar that floats on the lily pond.
The cheap
Muong Lao
If the free wifi starts working again, this would be the perfect place to stay for the budget traveler, who also gets a very comfortable bed, TV, air con, hot showers and free travel advice for their £5 a night. Also with on-site cafe.
The ugly
Merry Guesthouse 2
The ‘own bathroom’, which has a blocked drain, is the highlight of a grubby living experience that leaves you itching and not with the desire to return. Additional sideshow in the form of the moodiest landlady in all Asia, probably.
Eating
L'Elephant: a colonial cafe with wonderful grub
The good
L’Elephant
It’s worth breaking with the usual traveler adherence to local cuisine just for a sense of eating out in history at this colonial French cafe. Good cafe classics, like onion soup with thick cheese crust, mix well with more exciting options, such as buffalo steak or perch fresh from the Mekong.
The cheap
Ancient House
There may only be three things on the menu (noodle soup, noodle soup or noodle soup) but they’re all great and quite as nice for breakfast (the Lao way) as for dinner. Order the ‘fur’ noodle soup and get a bewildering accompaniment of fresh greenery, chili pastes, condiments and herbs to go with (and all for 6,000kip – about 45p).
The ugly
Sisavangvong bar
It’s not just that the service here is slow and occasionally rude and the food is boring, it’s also that the music, which blazes loudly at all hours, encompasses the worst selection of western pop from the last four decades – Peter, Paul and Mary anyone?
Sights
The gold stupa on the top of Phu Si can be seen from miles around
Royal Palace Museum
Former home of the Luang Prabang royal family (who were exiled in 1975), this early 20th century mansion is now home to many pretty things relating to the reign of Lao kings. The highlight is a room full of gifts from foreign heads of state, including some moon rock from Richard Nixon.
The cheap
Phu si (or Phousy)
This hill dominates LP and the big gold stupa on its summit can be seen from all over the city. Worth the sweaty climb for stupendous views and many beautiful golden Buddhas.
The ugly
Night markets
All along Th Sisavangvong from the Royal Palace to tourist information is closed for a night market selling same-samey overpriced tat, for the most part. More exciting are the offal-wielding food stall owners round the corner who attempt to force feed you the local sausage, oozing with fat, or deep fried chicken feet.
Activities
A cooking class puts the icing on the cake (metaphorically speaking)
The good
Cooking class at Tamnak Lao ($30)
Partnered with the Tamnak Lao restaurant and sharing its excellent reputation, the class incorporates a trip to the local markets, demonstration of nine key recipes and a cookbook.
The cheap
Big Brother Mouse
This is the single most rewarding thing to do in LP – forget giving alms to the monks in the morning (also a great thing to do), donating time at this literacy centre to help local kids learn English is immensely rewarding. Just turn up any morning at nine (the building’s just behind the Three Nagas restaurant) and spend a couple of hours reading with these friendly interested kids – you’ll be sure to learn more than you teach.
The ugly
Luang Prabang Bowling
Not technically ugly as it’s lots of fun, but messy in the extreme – after all the bars close at a 10.30 curfew this is the place to go to drink (and bowl) until 3pm. There’s no need for bowling shoes but you may need your hard-drinking hat.
Drinking
The good
Utopia
There should be a prize just for finding this place. Despite the frequent flyering done by bored locals down on the Nam Khan it’s hidden down several winding backstreets. The prize is getting there: it’s breathtakingly gorgeous setting over the river provides the perfect end to any LP day.
The cheap
Hive
Hive may not be the smartest bar in town but it’s definitely the coolest. DJs roll out plenty of favourites from the early naughties as well as the latest thing to a mixed crowd. Other bars on the same strip are also cool but this place gets extra kudos for its Laos-shaped bee-hive logo.
The ugly
Khob Chai and Ban Aphay
Obnoxious people beerily peering at football on the largest screen in history is not what foreign travel is all about. Avoid.
Go to Luang Prabang for the sights, stay for the atmosphere, food, and people. A southeast Asia must-visit.
