Category Archives: Laos

How green were their valleys (or an exercise in purple prose)

Today (September 8th) J and I hired a motorbike for an almost-aimless drive out to some ruins at Muang Khoun, the old capital of Xieng Khonang province, which was flattened by US bombing during the secret war. The ruins thrilled … Continue reading

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Jar wars

It’s not often when a visit to a tourist attraction comes with the risk of maiming or death, but the Plain of Jars (just outside Phonsavan in Laos) is no ordinary tourist attraction. Quite apart from the mysterious origins of … Continue reading

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Luang Prabang: The good, the cheap and the ugly

A few days in Luang Prabang will doubtless be one of the highlights of any trip to Indo-china. A couple of weeks there allows you to sample most of what the city has to offer in terms of sights, excursions, … Continue reading

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Rice to be you…to be you rice?

Lao food is almost unique in Asian cooking as it uses ‘sticky’ (glutinous) rice as its main staple for all meals rather than – as in other countries –just desserts. This type of rice is named for its high starch … Continue reading

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In the Laap of luxury

Laap is a Laotian salad made with minced meat, finely chopped long beans and a number of piquant herbs and spices that give it a salty, yet sweet and lemony flavour. It’s delicious, tasty and – best of all – … Continue reading

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On the tube

Whatever Vang Viene was once known for on the tourist trail of southeast Asia now pales in the minds of the gap-packers beside ‘tubing’. In guesthouses and hostels throughout Thailand and Malaysia a certain type of traveller will ask you: … Continue reading

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Day of the dead

We were lucky enough to be in Ventiane at the time of Boun Khao Padabdin – a festival of the dead, where the local people come to the temple to offer rice. I went there early in the morning to … Continue reading

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Two wheels good: a day in Vientiane

The capital of the People’s Democratic Republic of Laos, Ventiane, is a charming city, thanks to the influence of late 19th century French colonial architeture, wide tree-lined avenues and views across the wide confluence of the magistic Mekong. A handful … Continue reading

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Tales of two cities

It was the worst of times: 14 hours on a night bus with no reclining chair. But then again it was the best of times: those 14 hours were 14 hours away from Bangkok and into Laos. We were heading … Continue reading

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